USP The spa is at the top of a steep cliff linked to the Radisson SAS Palace hotel below by a glass funicular. Beautiful light-filled contemporary architecture centred on two spectacular indoor and outdoor thermal pools.

AMBIENCE With views over a nature reserve, the all-white minimalist interior makes the spa feel like a futuristic sanatorium. The centre specialises in a range of baths — carbonated, Niagara, peat and Turkish — as well as thermal water massages.

EXPERIENCE My first treatment involved being hosed down and massaged by a well-built matron clad in wellies and a white plastic jumpsuit. It was a faintly surgical experience which was made even more surreal by my inability to communicate with her, but I got the feeling that whatever was happening was “for my own good”.

FOOD The centre has its own café that serves light lunches, sandwiches, snacks and fruit. More elaborate food is available in the hotel.

IN CROWD Locals and European businessmen in search of relaxation. There’s also a special package for mums and babies.

WALLET WATCH One-day access costs e27 (£19); individual treatments are priced separately: a 55-minute full-body massage is e57; carbonated and Niagara baths are e28 each and a peat bath costs e39.

NEED TO KNOW Thermes de Spa (0032 87772560; www.thermesdespa.com)

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