USP The world famous Gleneagles Hotel, grand old man of traditional Scottish luxury - and golf - has risen to the challenges of the 21st century and broadened its appeal with new facilities for families and a brand new £8 million spa – the first ESPA branded spa in the UK.

Not only are all products from this renowned skin-care company but staff are trained by them to provide full ESPA "rituals". The "Ultimate Treatment Choice" is TIME (the thing we all lack these days!) - two hours or more in which the therapist creates a package of treatments specific to you. There are also treatments especially for pre- and post-natal women and for men.

AMBIENCE The design of the spa is a clever mix of traditional dark wood, in keeping with the hotel, and clean modern lines with a Japanese-influenced light and calm. Single orchids strategically placed add to the unfussy elegance. There is an air of great professionalism but it is not in the least clinical.

The spa is unlikely ever to be crowded. It is for adults booking a treatment only. The rest of the family does not miss out, though. The Club next door has two swimming pools, Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna. Within the spa, men and women have separate "Heat Experience" areas – with steam room, ice fountain etc – and come together for the sauna and vitality pool (with massage jets) and main relaxation area.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE I am collected from the female relaxation room (with furry blankets and headphones) by my therapist, Kirsty, who takes me to one of the 20 treatment rooms. I am to have the signature Purva Karma Four-Handed Massage and a facial.

I tell Kirsty about a stiff neck I’ve had for a few days and she adapts my treatments accordingly. She inspires complete confidence and as soon as the opening foot ritual (washing and massage) begins, I relax.

A full body scrub is followed by a shower (ensuite) and back onto the exceptionally comfortable massage bed. A standard body massage leads seamlessly into hot stones (which apparently go ten times deeper) and hot oil.

I notice now that there are four hands rather than two. They co-ordinate perfectly, like synchronised swimmers, and it feels wonderful. My face and scalp are massaged and eyes "revitalised" with cool pads. Everything is completely smooth, never a sudden movement or a harsh noise. It is utterly relaxing. I emerge two and a half hours later with skin, body and mind all in very much better condition. I can honestly say it was the best spa treatment I have ever had.

FOOD The Deseo (= Desire) Restaurant is exceptionally flexible and ranges from excellent fresh fish and meat to pizza. Deseo at the Spa – a cafe area within the spa where you can eat in your bathrobe – does spa-specific "boxes" with small portions of superfoods (fun but expensive). The hotel’s Strathearn Restaurant offers candlelit fine dining.

WALLET WATCH Winter rates from £305/night for a double room with breakfast and dinner for two in the Strathearn Sun-Thurs, B&B Fri/Sat. Treatments from £35, TIME (2 hrs) £160, Purva Karma (2hrs) £240, facials (55 mins) from £75. Spa packages also available.

Gleneagles Day Spa Experience is £185 per person, including full use of facilities, more than two hours of treatments and lunch at Deseo; available from Sunday at 2pm to Friday at noon.

Gleneagles has its own railway station with fast trains from London (from £30) (08457-225225; www.nationalexpresseastcoast.com)

NEED TO KNOW Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire, Scotland PH3 1NF (01764 694332; www.gleneagles.com) Resort Sales 0800 704 705

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