USP Their boast of “a spa pool that may lay claim to the best waterside view in Europe” might not be an exaggeration. The view from the thermal suite and sun terrace, as well as many of the rooms, is positively mesmerising — shimmering Lake Vyrnwy with its trademark lone gothic tower surrounded by a voluptuous hillscape. One could spend hours reclining on the spa’s tepidarium day couches (gently heated tiled chaise-longues) dreamily watching the light and wind play on the water. The spa, which uses organic Thai Ytsara products for the treatments, is brand-spanking new, part of a tasteful new wing of this Victorian hotel which also houses 14 new executive suites, most with lake views.

AMBIENCE Spa manager Alison Sharpe combined her own talents from previous careers in beauty therapy and interior design to create the spa. My visit was still too early to experience the promised red silk curtains and cream muslin canopies surrounding the treatment tables like a 4-poster bed, but the pristine thermal suite, complete with jaw-dropping view, was very inviting. The hotel itself, a rambling hunting lodge built to house dignitaries visiting the construction of the dam that created the lake in the late 1800s, has a touch of The Shining about it. The lounge is decorated with spooky old photographs of the village of Llanwddyn, an ancient town which was flooded to build the lake and lost forever. It’s certainly got character, and the new wing is luxurious and designed to stand the test of time.

EXPERIENCE I went for a “Beautiful Feet” treatment (£45), or “ritual” as Alison called it. It consisted of soaking, scrubbing and massage with fragrant oils and creams — an undeniably refreshing experience, not to be confused with a pedicure. I followed this with a “Thai Clay Sculpting Bodymask” (£54) which is meant to draw out impurities and tighten pores. Alison applied the cool clay, then cocooned me in handmade paper, heavy towels and a cuddly blanket, and massaged my scalp while the clay took effect. Next came a cooling gel, a body rub with fragrant oils and a lemongrass eye compress. After this thoroughly de-stressing experience I spent some time in the thermal suite. The spa pool is just a Jacuzzi but a fabulously forceful one which massaged me with hot bubbles as I gazed out on the lake. The sauna, salt-aroma steam room and monsoon showers were all enjoyed in turn - it was hard to tear myself away and my skin was like a peach for days.

IN-CROWD Apparently, our visit fell on the busiest weekend in the hotel’s history, but there was no sense of crowding — it’s amazingly peaceful. The hotel has maintained its sporting lodge status and caters to a ripening shooting and fishing set, boasting exclusive rights to 16,000 acres of hunting ground and sole use of the entire lake for fishing. The romantic setting is obviously appealing for those wanting an amorous retreat — we could throw open the balcony doors of our lake-view room and still have complete privacy.

FOOD On our first night, we anticipated the five-course dinner would be our one-off blow-out for the weekend, but it was so good we were back for a second assault the next night, with a new menu - an absolute steal at £33.50 per head, plus an impressive wine list. The menu has “an emphasis on fresh and local produce” — all the game comes from the estate and the chef makes the breakfast marmalade - though I did wonder where asparagus in late August had originated. There is also the Tower Tavern which serves pub grub.

WALLET WATCH September short break prices start at £120 per person, twin share, for two-nights with full Welsh breakfast. Access to the spa's thermal suite costs an extra £20 per room per day, if booked in advance, which can be offset against treatments.

NEED TO KNOW Lake Vyrnwy Hotel, Llanwddyn, Powys, SY10 0LY (01691 870692; www.lakevyrnwyhotel.co.uk) Email:info@lakevyrnwyhotel.co.uk

For more than 200 independent spa reviews: timesonline.co.uk/goodspaguide

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