I shot a buffalo this morning. Smack in its forehead, three times. My instructor, Brett Greenaway, a tanned, strongly built South African guide, tells me – as we stand in a scorching dust bowl, peering at the mangled poster pinned to a placard – that I am slightly “off target”, a kind way of saying that had this been a real charging buffalo, I’d be dead.

But I’m not here to hunt. I’m nearing the end of a two-week EcoQuest, a nature holiday in South Africa’s last remaining true wilderness area, Makuleke – a wilder-than-wild concession perched on the northernmost tip of the country. And now, washing off dust in the sparkling shallows of the Limpopo river, I feel fresh and alert – my skin is glowing and although I’ve walked more than I ever have, my legs want more.

It’s late morning and I’m starving. I jump into the green open-topped Land Rover driven by course leader Bruce Lawson, one of South Africa’s top guides and bird specialists. It’s well over 40C and, mercifully, wisps of cloud over the shimmering lala palms hint that summer rain is on its way.

As we drive, buffalo raise their heavy horns above the tall, bleached floodplain grasses and sniff the air inquisitively, zebra graze in the distance and cicadas, clinging invisibly to trees, scream feverishly in the heat. I’ve followed leopard spore at dawn through impala herds nibbling soft acacia fronds, shouting baboons and trotting warthogs; watched hippos yawn in the river and fat crocs laze on the banks; peered down at fish eagles surfing the thermals over ancient gorges in scarlet evening light; barbecued under the stars; and felt lions purr against the vehicle at night.

This afternoon, 10 of us trainees are tracking elephants. Bruce has lectured us on guiding essentials. We know how to recognise faint patches of squashed grass, a telltale leaf on the ground and dust flecks on rocks. It’s addictive. And now, grouped on a ridge, we look down on our prize: a large elephant breeding herd browsing the lion-dense forest.

A strong breeze rustles the leaves as we head down into thick mopane woodland to get a closer look. The sky is heavy with approaching rain, the birds are restless and, 100 metres from the herd, the guides can sense that something isn’t right. These elephants are spooked and we need an escape route – fast.

“Let’s move,” says Bruce.

A branch snaps to the right and stomach-churning trumpeting blasts through the leaves. We crunch over dry mopane twigs, kick up rust-coloured sand, stumble over rocks and fallen branches. I’m pouring sweat and fighting rising panic – I can’t drag my eyes from the gun.

Two hours later and I’m still speed-walking – we can’t shake them. At last, Bruce stops us. “Take time to regroup, calm those shakes and then move again,” he says. “We’re not out of danger yet.” On cue, trumpets blast again and we’re off, heading for the safety of the ridge.

Back at camp, Bruce maps our encounter in the sand with a stick. We’ve been “boxing” elephants – turning 90˚ back on ourselves to outmanoeuvre them. And what if we had had to face them? “You’d bunch together behind these two guys and get religious,” says Bruce, pointing to the two young guides walking with us. Only half smiling.

How to get there

Charlotte Hunt-Grubbe took a two-week EcoQuest Nature Identification and Exploration course with EcoTraining. Prices from £765 per person including meals and accommodation in permanent safari tents; 0027 137 45 7778; www.ecotraining.co.za .

Return flights to Johannesburg with BA from £656; 0870 8509 850; www.ba.com

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